Archive for Victorian Jewellery

Jun
02

Bog Oak – more black Victorian Jewellery

Posted by: | Comments (1)

A bit about Bog Oak

From my postbag:

How about  Bog Oak?  I have a brooch that I think is.  I’m not sure.  Can you tell me a little about it?  And maybe how to tell if bog oak is the material?

My Reply:

 

Bog Oak Jewellery

Bog Oak Jewellery

Bog Oak was popular in Victorian  Antique Jewellery  especially for a mourning piece. It was easier to find and work than Jet but cannot be polished as highly and the shapes achieved are much simpler. So Bog Oak jewas cheaper as the finished article. Bog oak jewellery remains cheaper than jet jewellery today. Bog Oak is the wood of Oak Trees that has long since fallen into peat bogs in Ireland and been preserved and become black in colour. You will often see it carved with Shamrock patterns and occasionally set with pearls.

How can you tell if it is bog oak?  It is matt in appearance ( unlike jet which tens to be highly polished) and you can see a wood grain if you look carefully. None of the other materials popular in Victorian Mourning jewellery has the wood grain. Please take care not to get this material wet – just clean with a soft dry brush.

Comments (1)

Victorian Jewellery – Queen Victoria’s influence on the fashion of the time

Queen Victoria (1819 – 1901) was a hugely popular and fashionable figure during the Victorian age. In all things, whatever she chose was quickly followed by her subjects wanting the same thing – Jewellery was no exception and whatever the Queen was seen wearing soon became the must have high fashion item of the day. When we look at Antique Jewellery today we can still see this influence in the abundance of particular types of jewellery and the dates at which they were most popular.

Snake Jewellery

Snake Jewellery

From what I can find the first big influence the Queen’s Jewellery had on Victorian Society was when Prince Albert gave the young Queen an engagement ring in the form of a snake which was set with an emerald. Of course this would play to Victorian sentimentality and hidden meaning – the snake or serpent for “Eternity” and an Emerald for “Hope”. How very romantic. They married in 1840. The snake was popular in jewellery for the rest of the Victorian era – you can find ring and also bracelets , brooches and necklaces all with a snake or two. How about a stick pin with two snakes heads?

As wedding gifts Victoria and Albert exchanged wedding gifts. Victoria gave Albert a “collar of the Garter” and Albert gave Victoria a Sapphire and diamond brooch. Both the Garter motiff and the Diamond brooch became widely worn after this event although diamonds were not quite as abundant at that time as they became following the finding of diamonds in South Africa in the late 1860s.

Victoria and Albert both loved all things Scottish and during the 1840s spent a lot of time there eventually buying Balmoral Castle in 1848. This set a trend for all things Scottish and traditional Scottish Jewellery became widely worn. Much of this Scottish jewellery is made of silver or gold and set with Scottish agate hard stone panels and semi precious stones such as citrines. Much of this is of traditional design – a Scottish dirk or a kilt pin, you certainly can see the Celtic influence in many pieces.

Prince Albert died in 1861 and Queen Victoria’s mourning set the fashion for wearing black for long periods of time following the death of a loved one. Along with the black clothes came black jewellery . Victorian black mourning jewellery was made from Bog Oak, Gutta percha, black enamel and a favourite due to the way it could be carved and polished was Whitby Jet. Victorian mourning jewellery is big and bold quite different from the dainty mourning jewellery of the Georgian eras.

Victorian jet brooch

Victorian jet brooch

Queen Victoria celebrated a couple of important jubilee’s – 1887 and 1897 – you can fin brooches, medals, charms, fobs and stick pins all celebrating these big events in her life.

Towards the end of her life Victoria had a lesser influence on the fashion trends of her subjects. Mourning became less deep and as the fashions for clothing became lighter so did jewellery.  Take a look at your jewellery from the Victorian era – can you see the Queens influence?

Many of the pieces of jewellery that Queen Victoria influenced can still be found today – genuine antique Victorian Jewellery need not cost more than the modern jewellery of today so Happy Hunting.

Categories : Antique Jewellery
Comments (1)

Looking at  Antique Victorian Jewellery we often see something from quite a different perspective from that of its original owner. We see a pretty little piece , quaint, decorative , interesting or valuable. A hundred and fifty years ago the original owner may have seen these things the jewellery may have had a deeper meaning. Messages were contained in jewellery, sometimes these messages were hidden and other times they were messages that the wearer wanted to convey to the world.   How did the Victorians put meaning in their Jewellery ? They used symbols which were commonly understood at the time but which are largely forgotten now. It is interesting to take a look at pieces and to uncover their deeper meanings today.

Amongst other things the Victorians gave meaning to flowers, gemstones, animals and objects such as an anchor.  To read a piece of jewellery and uncover its meaning you need to look at all of the elements used as they were often used in combinations

meanings in stones and flowers

meanings in stones and flowers

In previous posts I have discussed two of the symbols which are commonly found and understood today  : Faith, Hope and Charity and Mizpah.  Here are a few more:

Snakes: Mean “Eternity”. Prince Albert gave Queen Victoria an engagement ring in the form of a snake. As always in the Victorian era, anything that Queen Victoria did became high fashion.

Anchor and Chain: Faith in salvation

Butterfly : Resurrection. This is taken from the three parts of a butterflies life with the butterfly being the resurrection from the chrysalis.

Clasped hands: Friendship

Heart: as today means love or devotion. Flaming heart means passion, Crowned Heart means Love Triumphant

Dog: Fidelity, Fly: Humility, Wishbone: Wish or hope

Arrows or Cupid = Love 

 

Diamond and Ruby pin

Diamond and Ruby pin

Meanings of flowers:

Bluebells: Constancy

Mistletoe: A kiss

Lilac: the start of love

Ivy: Evergreen love or marriage

Forget-me-nots: Remembrance

Fern: fascination

Daisy:Innocence

Wiki has a comprehensive list of  the meanings of flowers.

 
Gemstones were also given specific meanings. For example:

Ruby : Passion

Amethyst: Devotion

Emerald: Hope

Diamond: Constancy

Ruby: Passion

Pearls:Tears

Coral: Protection against evil

 

As I mentioned earlier, more than one of these symbols can be combines into a piece of jewellery. Here are a couple of examples:

A heart shaped pendant set with Amethysts might mean love and devotion.  An antique brooch with forget me nots set with pearls would be a mourning brooch.

So, next timeyou take a look at a piece of Victorian antique  jewellery why not try and find out what the original owner was trying to say? Do you know any more Victorian meanings for flowers and gemstones? Please do leave me a message here and I can update the post.

Categories : Antique Jewellery
Comments (1)
Mar
10

Gutta-percha Antique Jewellery from rubber

Posted by: | Comments (0)
Gutta percha brooch

Gutta percha brooch

A very strange material not used in Jewellery these days is Gutta-percha. In Victorian times this dark brown / black material was popular for making mourning jewellery . You can also find complex shapes and intricate cameos.  Not only is it black but also is easily carved or shaped – just like plastic today. It was first introduced in the 1840s.

How can you tell Gutta Percha from Jet and other black jewellery?

Sometimes the colour is a deep black/ brown or even slightly purple rather than a pure black . If you can see lines where the piece has been removed from a mould it will not be jet and so is more likely to be gutta-percha. It has a rubber smell when rubbed and you may just see light through a thin piece

Care of Gutta-percha.

Antique Victorian Gutta-Percha brooches can fade in sunlight and if exposed to water. Like all other Antique Jewellery, I suggest a light brush would be the best way to clean any piece and keep in a dark place when not being worn.

Value of Gutta-percha jewellery?

This is not as highly valued as Jet but is still quite collectable. A nice brooch would be £50 upwards with a highly carved large pendant being more. Look out for pendants with the links made from Gutta-percha too.

Victorian violin brooch

Victorian violin brooch


Categories : Antique Jewellery
Comments (0)