When looking at antique jewellery and vintage jewellery one of the things which help me to date a piece and place it in its original time frame is its style. This is a technique which helps with most other vintage and antique items as well. Before specialising in Jewellery I spent many years as antique dealer handling ceramics and glass from the last 200 years and the style of these antiques was just as important as it is with Jewellery. Learning to identify different styles is one of the key skills for any antique or vintage dealer or collector.
There are several ways you can learn about style, I spent many years doing courses about antiques and Jewellery, reading books and talking to antiques dealers. One great way to learn about style is to visit a real life auction house when there are having a catalogued sale devoted to one particular style. For example Art Deco and Art Nouveau are styles that often have specialist sales.
Victorian Style
Which styles to learn
For anyone buying antique and vintage today there are several key styles which are essential to know and to learn how to differentiate the original from modern copies. There are several more styles, I would suggest you start with these:
Georgian,Victorian, Victorian Aesthetic, Arts and Crafts, Art Nouveau, Art Deco 1950s, 1960s and 1970s
What do you need to know about style?
When it first became popular and when it had revivals
The colours and materials and manufacturing techniques used
The main influences
The important designers and artists
Art Nouveau
Some good books on Style
This list of books are one on my bookshelf which I have found useful:
The elements of Design Ed: N. Riley Pub: Mitchell Beazley
Arts & Crafts Style Ed: I. Anscombe Pub: Phaidon
A century of Design Ed: P Sparke Pub: Mitchell Beazley
The new Look Design in th Fifties L Jackson Pub Thames and Hudson
The Look of the century M. Tamblin Pub: Dorling Kindersley
Some of these may be out of print but I am sure you are resourceful enough to track down a copy on the Internet
A note of caution
When dating an antique style is not everything it is just one of several factors which help us. Once a style has first flourished it can be copied for many years later. There will be differences between the original style and the copies and copies do not have the same desirability as originals.
Looking for some vintage jewellery to go with your summer outfit? Silver looks good in the sun and because its cheaper than gold you can afford something much chunkier.
Some lovely pieces of vintage silver jewellery can be found from the 1970s which goes great with boho and rock chick fashions.
How about a silver bangle ? You can wear more than one at the same time – either one on each wrist or several on one wrist. This bangle is a cuff type silver bangle and is super stylish
silver bangle
A wonderful Modernist Silver Cuff type Bangle. This bangle is made of sterling silver and is fully hallmarked. It measures about 4 cms wide and can be adjusted slightly depending upon the size of your write although I would recommend this for a medium size wrist. This is quite a chunky piece of jewellery weighing about 50 grams
To go with the silver bangle a silver Torque . A Torque is a type of necklace made from a solid piece of metal rather than a chain. This type of necklace has been popular since Celtic times when they were worn as the sign of a chieftain or war lord.
Silver Torque
A beautiful silver torque necklace with a hammered effect finish. This necklace is made of sterling silver You could hang a pendant from the lower loop if you wish or wear this stylish piece of jewellery on its own. The necklace is 4mm wide and is suitable for a medium sized neck
Vintage silver rings. What a wide variety there are available. You can have a plain silver ring or one set with a semi-precious stone such as rose quartz or marcasites.
What pretty pieces these are and sure to be admired wherever you go. These pieces of vintage silver jewellery would also make an excellent gift for someone with a summer birthday.
Pearls, popular in jewellery for centuries, come in many different types and kinds. You hear about natural pearls, faux pearls , cultured pearls, Akoya pearls, SouthSea pearls and Baroque pearls.
Do you know the difference between any other type of pearl and a baroque pearl? A Baroque pearl is a pearl which is not round, it has an irregular shape. Pearls are formed around a grain of sand or similar entering the shell of an oyster. If that grain is not round then the pearl formed will also be of irregular shape.
Baroque pearl pendant
Baroque
is a term referring to the irregular or asymmetrical shape of an item. There was a Baroque period during throughout the 1600s when pearls were very popular.
Once upon a time irregular shaped pearls were highly prized and were used as the base for fantastical jewellery such as the body of a unicorn, merman or cockerel. Nowadays they are not often set into jewellery but ones that are not too far off round are made into necklaces which have all the lustre and sheen of a standard pearl necklace but at a much lower cost. Strangely although necklaces with baroque peals are normally cheaper , when set into jewellery such as pendants or brooches baroque pearl jewellery usually costs more as the work all needs to be done by hand due to the differing shapes and sizes.
Baroque Pearl Necklace
Baroque pearls are so popular that you can even find costume jewellery set with man made baroque pearls.
Interested in buying some antique or vintage baroque pearl jewellery? AntiqueAvenue normally ahs a few nice pieces available.
vintage pendant pearl amethyst silver baroque
What an amazing vintage pendant and is in the antique baroque style although it actually dates from the early 1900s. This pendant is made of silver and set with a central real amethyst and baroque and round pearls (I am presuming the round pearls are cultured although I cannot test these without damaging them). The smaller “amethysts” are coloured glass. I have added a newer silver chain so that this pendant is ready to wear. Material:Silver, amethyst and costume jewellerySize: Pendant is 4 cms long and 3.6 cms wide. The silver chain is 60 cms longAge:Early 1900s Condition: Excellent
Art Deco Costume Jewellery, part 4 of AntiquesAvenue’s guide to Costume Jewellery History.
In the 1920s and 193os Costume Jewellery was epitomised by the bold colours design and new materials which followed from the difficult times of the first world war.
The 1920′s saw a revolution in design, fashions changed dramatically after the first world war. Women had become far more independent, they had worked during the war and wanted clothing and fashion which supported their new lifestyle rather than keeping them in the past. As fashions in clothing changed so did fashions in costume jewellery, the style of the jewellery needed to match the style of the clothes. Shorter hair ( the bob) needed longer earrings. Short sleeves allowed bangles and bracelets to be seen. The flapper necklace which is very long went well with the straight dresses and dropped hemlines.
1920s shapes were angular, cubic, geometric and colours were bold shades of red, black, white, green and blue. Mixed in with this were style trends such as the Egyptian revival which followed the finding of King Tutankamens tomb in 1922 -scarabs, pyramids, palm trees were all popular – look at this original 1920s charm to see how the colours and angles of art deco mixed with Egyptian style.
art deco pyramid charm
Coco Chanel was possible The main designer of the 1920s – she added faux pearl necklaces by the yard to her designer outfits. Other costume jewellery designers started up in business during the 1920s include Miriam Haskell ( New York) and Monet
Materials from 1920s costume jewellery include glass, brass, plastics and faux pearls,
The 1930s.
Massive technological and economic change during the 1920s led to an explosion of costume jewellery in the 1930s both in terms of the quantities available to be purchased, the design, manufacturing methods and materials used. As usual the costume jewellery introduced also followed the dress fashions of the day – the dress clip is a 1930s invention. These can be worn as a brooch or unclipped and worn either side of a square necklace ( more pictures of how this works at end of this blog entry):
dress clip
Brooches and bracelets were worn more widely in the 1930s . Brooches were often figural in shape ( flowers or animals) and studded with diamante ( also known as Rhinestones in the USA). Fashion as in previous eras was still influenced by Royalty with Wallis Simpson ( the Duchess of Windsor) being one of the fashion icons of the day. The 1930s saw movie stars influencing fashion more and more – Think Joan Crawford.
Materials used in 1930s costume jewellery include bakelite ( still in the art deco geometric shapes and colours), marcasites, enamel and various non precious metals. “Pot Metal” is a silver tone metal which was widely used for setting with clear diamante.
Famous costume Jewellery designers starting in the 1930s include : Eisenberg, Joseff of Hollywood, Rebajes and De Rosa.
parts of dress clipback of dress clip
Next in this series on costume jewellery history is the 1940s and 1950s.
Do you collect old stuff? Antiques, vintage, retro, period or antiquity? Today I am taking a look at what each term means – how old is antique or vintage? Here are my definitions and why and how they are applied here on antiquesavenue blog and my antiques shop.
Modern anything newer than vintage eg less than 20 years old. Applied today that would be anything after 1989. These items could also be know as Second hand or pre-owned. I think the Americans refer to stuff of this age as “Estate”.
Antique or vintage?
Antique – the official legal definition of antique takes us to items of 100 years old or more. 19o9 is not a good cut off date for antiques . The official definition now includes all Edwardian items and many Art Nouveau ones too. Stylistically the end of the Edwardian era is not a good place to change from antique to vintage as style advanced very little during the 1910′s, presumably the first world war held back much of the design change which came in the 1920s . Some major antiques fairs are now allowing anything older than 50 years to be described as antique. I actually think this is too lenient as it means that items from the 1950s are antique where as stylistically they fit so closely with the 1960s that it is best to keep these in vintage. You can see I have divided my jewellery in the shop into antique jewellery and vintage jewellery – the cut off date between the two being circa 1920.
Vintage - anywhere between the modern and antique . By my current interpretation of antique that is 1920s to 1980′s. This period encompasses art deco and modern design of the 195os, 1960s and 1970s. Following the first world war and its immediate aftermath came the 1920s and a drastic shift in design to art deco – stylistically this fits best with the modern design rather than the antique.
Retro - This refers to style rather than age of an item. Retro refers to the high style of the 1950s through to the 1980s but can also refer to new items in that style
Period – these are items which genuinely come from the age they are styled for rather than reproduction. So if a vase is referred to as Period Art Deco it is from the 1920s/ 1930s rather than a newer piece. The opposite to this is to call a piece Art Deco style, if you see this beware it is most likely much newer than the art deco era.
Antiquity – items from the ancient world – the Romans and Greeks for example.
Revival – here is an interesting term. Revival means when a style cam back into fashion. Hence we had an art nouveau revival in the 1970s and I think that there is a little art nouveau revival going on right now – just take a look at some of the swirling designs popular in fabrics and on websites at the moment. Some other revivals are: Egyptian in the 1920s, Japanese -1870s, medieval gothic – 1860s and art deco in the 1980s.
I’m onthe look out for more interesting antique time scale terms – can you suggest any?
I get a regular stream of questions asking for information on your antiques, it is always interesting to take a look but today it was a real pleasure to be sent a photograph of these wonderful perfume bottles.
How pretty are these? So very desirable for any perfume bottle collection. The gentleman who sent me this picture tells me that they were given to his wifes mother in 1922 and they were not new then – he believes that they are venetian glass.
I completely agree that they were not new in 1922, these are Victorian. I think that they are Palais Royale pieces. The Palais Royale is in Paris and was built in1629 for Cardinal Richelieu, later becoming the residence of the Duke of Orleans. Shops and cafes were built in the grounds of the palace and these were patronised by wealthy visitors looking for trinkets and souvenirs. Commonly we find today small pieces known as Palais Royale – they have a few things in common – ornate gilt metal work, mother of pearl, mirrors, glass, flowers for example.
This perfume bottle set would originally have had a cover ( you can see the grove in the wooden base where it would have fitted ) – I think a glass dome rather than a wooden case – who would want to hide such finery. I notice that there are “Gems” set into the metal – it is difficult to be sure from one photo but these are most likely glass. I see some of the flowers are also coloured – perhaps enamel? There was a great french glass making industry and so the perfume bottles could well be French although they may have been imported from Italy. I suspect that the blue colour is overlaid on the glass but again this would need to be looked at in person to be sure.
Age – Victorian, Retail value? - a few hundred pounds depending upon condition.
AntiquesAvenue has a few genuine vintage perfume bottles for sale but not quite as grand as these.
From my postbag today, an e.mail simply asking “What is Art Nouveau?”
Art Nouveau is a decorative style which was originally popular in the latere 1800s and early 1900s. The style is called after a Parisienne shop opened by S. Bing in the 1890s calle “L’Art Nouveau” however the style had been arround for a few years before that shop opened.
Art Nouveau is characterised by naturalistic images and flowing curved lines ~ just look at the poppy flower in the plate above . Some of the major British names associated with the art nouveau movement are Liberty, Aubrey Vincent Beardsley and the Glasgow Movement including Charles Rennie Mackintosh.
Today you can still buy original Art nouveau works of art and decorative artifacts including Jewellery, silver and pewter vessels. If you are looking to aquire original pieces of Art Nouveau at a reasonble price I suggest a piece of Charles Horner silver ( Jewellery or a Hat Pin) or a nice art Nouveau tile. Nice examples can still be obtained from arround £50.