Archive for June, 2010
Gemstone Vintage Jewellery
Posted by: | CommentsTaking a look at the Gemstones we find in Antique and Vintage Jewellery. Gemstones have always been popular in jewellery, the ancients collected and wore them – there is evidence of gemstone mining since the stone age. I’m going to take a look at the gemstones we find in today’s antique and vintage jewellery that is jewellery we find from the Georgian, Victorian and Edwardian eras and through the 20th century till the 1970s.
What is a Gemstone?
A Gemstone is something which can be set into jewellery, it needs to look good, to last well when it is worn and it helps if the item is rare enough for everyone else not to have one. Both natural minerals (eg. Diamonds, sapphires, amethyst) and organic materials ( Pearl, Amber, Shell) can be gemstones but it is also possible to create gemstones in a lab. Gemstones can come in all shapes, sizes and colours. They can be cut polished and artificially enhanced to improve their beauty.
Gemstones in Vintage Jewellery
Different stones have been popular at different times. This is due to several factors, Fashion, availability of the stone due to new mine discoveries, changes to technology enabling the stones to be cut and polished in new ways. Knowing about when and how the different stones were used can help us date the piece of antique or vintage jewellery.
If we are looking at most antique jewellery and vintage jewellery we see today the gemstones which are commonly found are: diamonds, emeralds, rubies, sapphires and pearls. Amethysts, Aquamarines, Citrines, Topaz, Garnet, Coral, Jade, Amber, Turquoise, Opal, Peridot, Quartzes and Agates. Learning about this set of stones will help us to date and value any pieces of antique and vintage jewellery .
Identifying gemstones in jewellery
Because we want to protect our special jewellery we need to use none destructive ways of identifying the gemstones. The tools I use include a 10x loupe magnifying glass and an electronic gem tester. These can help but no necessarily positively identify the stone, you also need a bit of background knowledge.
Use your eyes and the loup to look at and into the stone. One of the first things to do is to look at the colour, emeralds are green, rubies are red and turquoise is turquoise. If the stone you have is red you may just have a ruby or you might have red glass or a garnet. Take a look deep into the stone. Are their any tiny round air bubbles? If so you probably have a glass stone. Are the facets highly polished and hand cut? Then is is likely but not always a gemstone. Glass is usually warmer to the touch than gemstones but you need to learn the difference and know how warm a piece of glass is and how cold a gemstone is.
An electronic gemstone tester tests the heat restance of a stone and give strong pointers to which stone it is. Certainly you can tell the difference between a sapphire and blue glass, identify a diamond. Tell the difference between a citrine and topaz and make several other distinctions using this machine. To me the gem tester is invaluable but it is quite an expensive piece of equipment so unless you have lots of stones to identify it is probably not worth purchasing. If you just have a few items I would take the gemstone jewellery to my local jeweller to identify the stones.
I will discuss individual gemstones in more detail by giving each one a blog entry of its own.
Care of antique and vintage gemstone jewellery.
Most mineral based gemstones are stable enough to stand a wash in mild soap and water but some such as emeralds need to be treated with greater care. Organic gemstones such as pearls, amber and coral deteriorate more easily and you need to take much greater care of them , keep them separated from other jewellery and do not immerse in water.
As always the antique jewellery you see in the pictures here is currently available at www.antiquesavenue.co.uk
Vintage Jewellery materials, letter F
Posted by: | CommentsWorking through the alphabet looking at vintage jewellery materials , there seems to be little for me to say around the letter F.
Of course both Fur and Feathers have been used in vintage jewellery these are both natural materials which have disintegrated easily and there is very little vintage jewellery left made from these. You may find a fur brooch from the 1950s and 1960s or perhaps a pair of earrings set with peacock feathers. I admit I would not want jewellery made from animal fur but if it takes your fancy I suggest that you don’t get it wet or it will spoil.
Foil has been used in jewellery since at least the Georgian age when it was used to back gemstones and artificial paste stones to add brilliance and sparkle. Foil is very thin, perhaps thinner than paper . Foil backed Jewellery from the Georgian and Victorian eras can be identified by looking for pieces with a closed back setting and then looking deep into the stone. Often the foil has begun to deteriorate and you will see crack lines or at least you will see the light reflecting from the foil in a way it would not do otherwise.
My favourite use of foil is in vintage costume jewellery where is has been added to glass beads to as a metallic inclusion. There are some very attractive glass necklaces from the 1920s and later with foil inclusions. Look at this necklace, the blue beads glitter with silver which is included foil. Beads can have gold, silver or copper coloured foil inside. and the glass can be of any colour. Other places you can find foil in costume jewellery is on the back of diamante where the stones are in an open setting. Again the foil is used to reflect the light out of the stone and give added sparkle.
Vintage Jewellery News
Posted by: | CommentsIts several weeks since I’ve updated my Vintage Jewellery news from AntiquesAvenue. AS usual I have been very busy buying antique and vintage jewellery and adding it all into my shop, here are some of the highlights
I have added lots of genuine vintage glass necklaces to the site mainly from circa 1920 to circa 1950s. This is from a lifetimes collection I have recently purchased and will be adding more during the rest of this week and next.
Collections and Lots
For the first time I now have a few wholesale lots or collections of vintage costume jewellery available and will be adding more if these prove successful. If you are starting a vintage jewellery business or just like to sell a few bits on eBay you will find these are quite a bargain.
Changes to AntiqueAvenue.co.uk
My shop continues to evolve and i suspect that it will never be finished. New this month are sections for Designer Jewellery and Pendants to separate them from true necklaces.. Currently in the designer section has mainly name Scandinavian Silver jewellery however I am planning to add a range of UK Jewellery designers too.
World Cup Special Discount
Are England still in the world cup? I’m not a football fan and I know that a lot of my readers would prefer to shop for vintage jewellery than to watch it on TV. If England do reach the world cup final you can shop at www.antiquesavenue.co.uk where I will be offering a massive 20% discount for the duration of the final match.
AntiquesAvenue blog.
Are you knowledgeable about an aspect of antiques, vintage or collectables and can you write? I am looking for someone to help out with this blog and to develop its commercial potential. The idea is profit share and no initial investment of capital is required. The ideal person will have some knowledge of blogging or net publishing as well as a drive to write about antiques or collecting related areas. Is this you? If so them please do get in touch. This could be one person or possibly two or three to work on the project as I have no fixed ideas at present.
If you are wondering if this blog could be worth your effort then please do Google Antiques Blog where you will find antiquesavenue.com right at the very top.
Coming Soon
I’m hoping to improve the navigation on antiquesavenue.co.uk by moving to shopping cart and links to some of my information pages to the top and have already changed the header to make space.
Next week sees me adding loads more vintage glass necklaces
Happy Hunting ~ Anne x
Enamel Jewellery
Posted by: | CommentsEnamel adds colour to jewellery. It is applied to the surface of a piece and gives a colorful glassy finish as it is made of a type of glass with added colouring. The enamel is melted onto the surface with heat. All sorts of materials can be given an enamel surface. In jewellery we see enamel applied to gold, silver, copper, glass and base metals in vintage costume jewellery.
The first true enamelling where the enamel is fused to the surface by heat is thought to have been used by the ancient Greeks in the 4th century BC although the ancient Egyptians did use coloured glass in their jewellery. There are several techniques of enamelling which I will talk about more when I get round to discussing Vintage jewellery techniques. The most colourful techniques include Cloisonne, Guilloche, Plique du jour and Bas taille. Note the names are all in French, much great enamel work has come from France.
Looking at antique jewellery we see today the Georgians and Victorians used enamel in Mourning Jewellery especially rings and brooches - Black enamel often topped with words such as “In Memorium”. More colourful enamels can be seen on antique lockets with initials picked out in colour.
Moving to the early 1900s enamel became extremely popular to add colour to art nouveau jewellery. Enamel was used by the great art nouveau jewellers including Lalique, Charles Horner, Murrle Bennett and Tiffany. Enamel was used on all types of jewellery and accessories, necklaces, earrings, pendants, belt Buckles, hat pins and buttons included.
Enamel remained a popular jewellery material throughout the 1900s, you can find the different types on pieces of all ages. There is some excellent costume jewllery from the 1930s to 1950s with applied enamel colours . Scandinavian silver form the 1950s, 1960s and 1970s is highly sought after especially when it has enamel decoration , look out for David Andersen pieces especially butterflies. The 1980s brought bright costume jewllery in the shapes of animals and birds with lots of diamante, these pieces are readily available to the jewellery collector today and perhaps some of the better pieces would be a great investment. Nowadays there is some wonderful artisan / craftsman pieces of enamel jewellery which any one would be proud to own and wear.
Care of Enamel Jewellery
Enamel is a type of glass and so it can be damaged by dropping, chipping or knocking in the same way as glass. It should not fade in sunlight and can be cleaned in the same way as the material it is attached to although I would never put any antique or vintage jewellery into harsh chemicals such as silver dip.
Diamante Sparkle like Diamonds
Posted by: | CommentsDiamante Jewellery is vintage jewellery which sparkles and shine like diamonds but is very much more affordable than the real thing. Diamante are made of high quality lead glass and can be varied in shape, size and colour to suit the jewellery designer.
In the USA diamante are known as Rhinestones. During the Georgian and Victorian eras the equivalent stones were known as paste. Originally diamante were made in Czechoslovakia and probably the best ones are made by Swarovski in Austria. The backs of the stones can be coated in silver of gold coloured foil reflect more light out of the stone and give it a higher sparkle.
You can find Diamante can be set into vintage costume jewellery on their own or combined with other types of stones. There are several ways diamante can be set into jewellery, either glued or prong set being the most common. Look carefully at your diamante jewellery, can you see the prongs? If so it is better quality than jewellery with the diamante glued in and is most likely genuine vintage jewellery as modern pieces tend to be glued.
History of Diamante Jewellery
Paste jewellery was developed about 1730 , Georgian paste jewellery always has the stones foil backed and the paste will be enclosed in a closed backed setting in the jewellery just as fine jewellery was at that time. There is little real Georgian paste jewellery around these days and what we do see is often spoilt as moisture has got into the setting and the foil has lifted from the back of the paste stones.
During the Victorian ear paste stones would be set into gold and silver as well as into costume jewellery. I quite frequently come across Victorian gold brooches set with paste instead of diamonds which shows how highly regarded paste jewellery was.
The Edwardian used paste jewellery extensively. White jewellery such as diamonds and pearls was high fashion and every one could afford a paste brooch to copy this style
I cant find exactly where the distinction between paste and diamante started but it is round about the 1920s. It appears that pieces of Edwardian age and before are known as paste and later than 1920 are diamante. Of course white diamante were all the rage during the 1920s when they were extensively used to immitate diamonds. The 1930s saw a broader palette of colours used and combining diamante with other materials such as enamel. Many of the diamante used during the 1940s were larger and in colours such as gold and blue which suited the big bold jewellery of the time. During the 1920s to 1940s diamante could be set into materials such as Bakelite as well as into silver and base metal ( pot metal).
Diamante evolved during the 1950s with creations such as the Aurora Borealis finish which is a rainbow effect iridescent coating. Crystal clear diamante were popular for what has become known as Prom Jewellery which is jewellery with hundreds of prong set diamante strung as a chin into a necklace bracelet or earring. This type of vintage prom jewellery is suitable for wearing to a wedding or party today.
1960s fashion wasn’t big on diamante and for some years years they were rarely seen in jewellery. The diamante made its re-appearance in the 1970s disco era and become really big again during the 1980s club era.
Diamante shapes
Diamante are often given the same name as precious gemstones:
Baguette, rectangular long and narrow with faceted edges
Cabochon, half a ball shape with a flat back
Chaton, cushion, Dentelle, Emerald, flatback. Marquis, Mine cut, pear cut, princess cut Rose cur, round cut and square cur are all names which you may come across when looking at diamante.
Care of Diamante jewellery
Take care not to get your diamante wet, water behind the stone will ruin the foil and stones become dull, the setting beneath them can go green or they can fall out all together. The damage water causes has ruined countless pieces of good diamante jewellery. Try cleaning with s soft brush such as a dry tooth brush to start with followed by a light polish with a lint free cloth. If this has not worked you can use something like a tiny spray of clear window cleaning liquid onto your brush. almost dry this off the brush and then rub over the surface of the glass. Then polish dry and turn the piece upside down to make sure any residual moisture drys out rather than into the piece.
Please do put your diamante jewellery on after your perfume and makeup to keep the jewellery as clean as possible
Condition
I would say that with Diamante jewellery condition is extremely important perhaps a little more so than with other types of vintage and antique jewellery. This is because diamante jewellery especially from 1920s onwards is relatively plentiful and therefore it is not worth buying in poor condition. It is possible to buy replacement diamante and with a little effort replace one yourself if necessary but it will take a lot of time and effort probably exceeding the worth of the piece itself.
Names to look out for
Many top costume jewellery designers have used diamante in their jewellery. Coco Chanel, Christian Dior, Norman Hartnell, Coro and Corocraft, Trifari, Eisenberg, Swarovski, Hobe, Boucher, Hollycraft, Weiss, Regency and Schreiner, Miriam Haskell is all named Jewellery with Diamante which is worth looking out for.
Emerald Jewellery
Posted by: | CommentsEmeralds are one of the loveliest gemstones, their green colour is reminiscent of spring and gardens. The emerald is a rare and valuable form of the Beryl family. They come in a range of shades of green from pale to dark velvet green with the darkest green being the most valuable.
Used in jewellery since ancient times the emerald is normally seen these days cut in a rectangular step cut shape ( Think Art Deco)/. You can also find emeralds as beads and cameos. The emerald has been made synthetically since the 1930s and it is also imitated by green glass.
Natural emeralds normally have flaws and fissures which give a cloudy appearance to the stone. To improve the look of the emerald these fissures are filled with oil . You must take care when cleaning emerald jewellery or this oil can leak out of the stone ruining its appearance. For this reason you should never clean emerald jewellery in an ultrasoinic jewellery cleaner.
The emerald is the Birthstone for May and has traditionally been associated with Loyalty, faithfulness and friendship.
Not all emerald jewellery has to be expensive. Small emeralds can provide a beautiful flash of green and look great set into yellow gold Or how about an emerald gemstone chip necklace. You still have real emeralds but at a bargain price.
AntiquesAvenue normally has a selection of vintage and antique jewellery set with emeralds . Take a look at these emerald earrings for example:

These earrings are set with really nice Emeralds. Each emerald is faceted and measures about 6mm long. The emeralds are set into fully hallmarked nine carat gold. These emerald earrings are for pierced ears and are in excellent clean condition.
Vintage Jewellery Collections
Posted by: | CommentsThere’s a real treat for Vintage Jewellery lovers over at antiquesavenue. I’ve a few special lots of genuine vintage costume jewellery available at bargain wholesale prices.
All of these lots of jewellery are packed full of genuine vintage jewellery. Currently there is one lot of brooches and several lots of glass necklaces and I will be adding a few more collections over the coming weeks.
Please note all of my vintage jewellery collections are offered at a bargain price however I have not cleaned up the pieces, I am sending them out exactly as I have received them and you may wish to give them a gentle clean before wearing. The pieces are all quite wearable Eg catches and clasps working and no missing stones however there is likely to be minor signs of age as they are all genuinely vintage pieces of jewellery.
Lets take a look at one of these lots:
Vintage necklaces collection silver crystal lot
These necklaces are from a lifetimes collection of genuine vintage costume jewellery I have recently purchased and I have so many pieces I have decided to offer some of them in lots. In this lot you have a silver filigree necklace, crystal necklaces a couple of lavalier type pendants and a glass backed locket with filigree front. You get exactly the items shown in the pictures
Condition: all items are wearable however I am sending these out as I received them and they have not been cleaned. There will be a very small amount of wear as these are genuine vintage necklaces from circa 1930s to 1950s. All the stones and pearls you can see are glass.
Vintage glass necklaces
Posted by: | CommentsI’ve spent most of today re-organising the vintage necklaces in my website shop. To try and make them easier to find I’ve divided them into types, Antique necklaces, Vintage necklaces, Glass Necklaces, Lockets and Pendants. Whilst I was doing this I started to think about all the different types of vintage glass necklaces strung with beads available – the range really is huge.
Antique Glass Necklaces
Whilst glass has been used in necklaces since ancient times, the earliest type of glass bead necklace we regularly find for sale these days are from the Victorian era and normally these are what is known to day as “French Jet” beads. French Jet was a popular imitation for real or Whitby jet during the Victorian era. It is not jet at all but a black glass which can sometimes be seen as a really really dark purple if you shine a light through it. French Jet beads are normally faceted and highly polished
Vintage Glass Necklaces
Moving forward in time Glass necklaces next become very popular in the art deco era. I am saying this as I have never seen an Edwardian necklaces in glass beads – The Edwardians preferred the Lavalier type pendants.
During the 1920s and 1930s there was a huge range of glass beads and necklaces popular. Many were made in Murano and Czechoslovakia and these are highly collectable today.
Perhaps some of the most collectable vintage glass necklaces have Wedding Cake beads or beads made of art glass. Many of these necklaces are strung on a metal chain rather than on a cord with one exception.Occasionally I find a flapper length glass necklace. Due to the weight of glass the glass beads in a flapper length necklace are quite small and often on a cord rather than a chain.
To my mind some of the most attractive glass necklaces are those with lamp work beads in the shape of fruit, flowers, leaves and rarely birds. These glass lampwork beads are attached by wire to the chain. If you are considering buying one of these lamp work necklaces do check the condition carefully as the ones I find are normally damaged.
Popular colors during the 1920s/ 1930s were crystal clear, green, yellow , pale blue and pink. Red is rarer and is a darker blue. The beads come in all shapes and sizes. Look out for large faceted beads in bright colours and interesting shapes.
A quick buying tip. Feel the beads get used to how warm a string of glass beads feel. Is the string unusually cold or takes longer than usual to warm up in your hand? If so then the beads could be real gemstones rather than glass. Its difficult to tell with the naked eye.
The 1950s and 1960s
Glass necklaces were again popular during the 50s and 60s. Many of the costume jewellery pearl necklaces we see from this time were made with glass beads , they can be natural pearl colour or a pastel colour with a pearl effect. The 1950s and 1960s saw triple string necklaces become popular and the beads were often irregular in shape.
Glass beads with an auroral borealis effect were introduced in the 1950s and quickly became all the rage. You can pick up a triple strand of high quality aurora borealis beads at a reasonable price and they will provide you with party sparkle for years to come.
The 1970s vintage glass necklace
Now I wore glass necklaces in the 1970s. They were long with tiny beads strung on a metal chain. Cheap hippie beads back then and ideal for today’s Boho look. These are often so fine that several strands can be worn at once. Still cheap today I guess that these are a great investment for the future. The wires are fine and they do tend to snag on woolen clothing so take care when wearing these glass beads.
Recently I bought a life times collection of vintage glass beads and so now has a section entirely devoted to Vintage Glass Beads of all ages. Personally I find them one of the most attractive forms of vintage costume jewellery and think they can only become rarer and more desirable as the years go on.


















